HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OF THE TURKISH CUISINE: PART 2

                                                      THE SELJUKS 

                                           Between 11th - 13th Centuries           

When the living conditions became unstable in Central Asia, the Turks emmigrated and settled in Anatolia. The most significant and the powerful state that was formed in Anatolia was the Anatolian Seljuks. In this new land, Anatolian Seljuks were exposed to many different and new ingredients. Upon encountering these new ingredients, they incorporated them into their own cuisine. The once simple cuisine became more complex with the addition of new ingredients and new cooking methods.
There are two important sources that gives us valuable information about the cuisine from the 11th century.



“Divanü Lugat-it Türk” by Mahmoud al Kashgari (Kaskarli Mahmut)
The oldest Turkish dictionary written between 1072 – 1074. Mahmoud al Kashgari introduced us to the 11th century cuisine from two aspects, the space and the material culture. He also provided information on names of various dishes and their preparation methods. It is considered a very valuable resource.



“Kutatgubilig” (Wisdom which brings good fortune)
by Yusuf Has Hacib
A manuscript written after Turks accepted Islam as their religion. This book is about his society’s beliefs and practices with regards to topics that reflect various aspects of life. The book gives information on how to set the table, feast preparations, and Turkish table etiquette.



The Mevlevi sect that was established after the death of Mevlana Celaleddin Rumi, a 13th Century Muslim saint and founder of Sufism, was known to give a lot of importance to the kitchen, therefore they have established rules about table manners, kitchen discipline and hierarchy in the kitchen.
Anyone who wished to enter the dervish lodge would pledge his allegiance to the Chief of Kitchen (Aşçı Dede). First task was to sit on a platform located at the entrance of the kitchen. If the keeper of the couldron approved, the novice would be sent to run errands for 18 days wearing the same cothes that he arrived in. If this task was completed with success, then he would receive his wide skirted special garment and start his 1001 days of ordeal, which also took place in the kitchen. During this time period the novice was given the same tasks over and over again to measure his obedience, endurance and patience.
If the novice was not good enough or was not patient enough to complete any of these tasks, his shoes would be placed in front of the door, with the tip of the shoes pointing outwards, signifying that he should leave. If the novice was engaged in a misconduct, then he was forced to leave through the door of insolence.



Yusuf Şemseddin, who is more commonly known by his nickname Ateşbaz-ı Veli, which means the one who plays with fire, was the cook of Rumi. He got that name, when one day he was complaining to Rumi about the finished firewood. Rumi told him to put his feet under to couldron to light the fire. When he did as he was told, his toes lit up making fire.
He is the first chef to have a tomb as a grave, to his name and it is located in Konya. Visiting his tomb is considered as a pilgrimage for all chefs and cooks. The salt that is offered there is known to bring prosperity and wealth to your household once mixed with the salt at home.

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